A Long Weekend in Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico

Mar 29

When I’m in a conversation with someone who shares an appreciation for good food and drink, I am often surprised by the plethora of Southern Californians who have never been to Baja Mexico. I’m talking anywhere from a few minutes across the border in Tijuana to just a couple hours south toward Ensenada.

Sunset and Bon Appétit magazines have showcased the wine country of Valle de Guadalupe, but so many of our neighbors haven’t set foot in the country. For me, it’s not about the wine. There’s a whole culinary destination to explore - especially in the Valle. You get the fresh seafood from the coast as well as farm grown produce and meats as you move inland. But what I love most about being south of the border is the sense of adventure and the authenticity of being in an undeveloped farm country. Dirt roads, livestock pens, and happy dogs roaming through restaurants with their tongues out. Pair that with some of the best food you’ll ever taste, and I’m in heaven.

One Sunday morning, while I was waiting for a table at the bustling breakfast spot, Doña Esthela’s, I heard bells and a commotion coming from the west. Sitting on a cement planter box, I held up my feet because a herd of cows and their babies were coming through the walkway, across the parking lot and into their corral, followed by three horsemen, a mut and a chihuahua. No one said a thing because that pastoral scene is just part of everyday life down there. Shortly after, my name was called, and we sat down for fresh jugo de naranja and chilaquiles. Not only was my meal a delight, but I was nourished by the richness of this wholesome place. The moments I hold on to for years are the ones full of this kind of unexpected gratitude. Life can be full of these mundane yet wondrous moments, but I’m often just too busy to celebrate them. It reminds me of the James Taylor lyrics, “Feel a fool, running your stateside games. Lose your load, leave your mind behind, Baby James. Oh, Mexico. It sounds so simple, I just got to go.”

So you should go. Go enjoy life’s simple pleasures of good food, drink, people and culture. Here are some places to eat, drink, sleep and some tips at the end to be sure you’re ready to embrace this adventure ahead.

Tijuana

Cereus (Tijuana - $$) My first stop when I cross the border. Cute bar with an amazing cocktail program. There are some other shops in the courtyard with coffee and food options. My go-to is always a mezcal margarita with a Topo Chico on the side (start hydrating!). - Lindsey

Tacos Fitos (Tijuana - $) Start off with some food in your belly at Taco Fitos, it’s Rick Bayless approved. - Juan
Dandy Del Sur (Tijuana - $) The dandiest of the dive bars. Anthony Bourdain approved. We took the crew here back in the summer of 2017. People got the jukebox going and the dance moves flowing. Ordering a bucket of beers and the beef jerky with lime and hot sauce are de rigueur. - Juan

Telefonica Gastropark (Tijuana - $-$$) Enjoy a pint and multiple restaurants inside this foodie park. There are plenty of diverse cuisine spots for all. The vibe is chill, it’s family friendly and close-ish to the border. - Juan

Verde y Crema (Tijuana - $$$) A great spot on the main strip in TJ above Insurgente and perfect for a special occasion. Delicious, upscale modern Mexican food, great spirits, beer and natural wine (oh hello, Bichi Pet Mex). - Lindsey
The Spot Cafe (Playa Hermosa - $) A collectivo with awesome coffee, beers, and people in Playa Hermosa. Grab a drink and play some ping pong! - Jess

Ensenada

Agua Mala (Ensenada - $) Grab a pint of beer with the ocean as the backdrop. - Juan
Boules (Ensenada - $$) Is Boules a pétanque bar? The most chill patio in Ensenada? Or a culinary standout downtown? Yes, yes, and yes. Stay late, bowl a little, get the tiradito de pescado and chistorra tacos. Fun fact: Boules, in its prior location up the road a few miles, was where the first Mexican National Pétanque team came together, ultimately competing in the World Cup of Pétanque in France. Ask Javi about it! - Jay Porter
Tacos Fenix (Ensenada - $) If you’re looking for that crispy, traditional fish taco experience with all the lime and salsa your heart desires, this is the spot. It’s hard not to order a dozen of these bad boys. Eat ‘em fresh right there on the street. - Lindsey
Manzanilla (Ensenada - $$) Be sure to grab a gin & tonic and sit near the bar so you can see them carving the jamón all night! - Jess
Mariscos El Gordito (Ensenada - $) It is a stand that serves the freshest seafood. They make everything to order. From shucking the clams, to cutting avocado, even the pico de gallo. It is extremely clean and for sure a must when in the area. It was definitely a life changing moment for me the first time I went there. - Rocio

La Guerrerense (Ensenada - $) Anthony Bourdain featured this pop up ceviche spot years ago. They now have a brick and mortar around the corner and serve tequila, mezcal, beer and wine. You can get adventurous with seafood, but my go-to is the pescado y mango tostada. Best $1 I’ve ever spent. - Lindsey
Hussong's (Ensenada - $) If you grew up in San Diego, your parents probably love this spot. An iconic old dive bar with the best margaritas and shell-your-own peanuts. Enjoy a little live music and accordion, if you're lucky. - Lindsey
Muelle Tres (Ensenada - $$) Hands down best ceviche I've ever had. - Jess

Valle de Guadalupe

Left to right: Conchas de Piedra, Fauna, Laja, Finca Altozano

Conchas de Piedra (Valle de Guadalupe - $$) Oysters & bubbles all day! Some of the best wine in the country by Casa de Piedra winery and shellfish from Deckman’s kitchen at this collaborative restaurant. Their sparkling rose is crunchy and semi sweet; it’s perfect with razor clams. All seafood is seasonal, responsible and 100% from Baja. Probably one of my favorite places ever! - Jess
Fauna at Bruma (Valle de Guadalupe - $$$) It's at the far end of Valle, but might be my new fave spot. Try the chef's tasting menu with the wine & beer pairing. Stay at their boutique hotel Bruma - if rustic modern is your vibe (it should be). Bonus: Their hotel and restaurant is fully solar powered and they source a majority of their ingredients from their organic farm. - Lindsey
Laja (Valle de Guadalupe - $$) The first destination restaurant in the Valle opened over twenty years ago, and many of chef/owner Jair Téllez’s original team are still there, making magic in their dreamy wine country dining room. Elegant, delicious, thoughtful and kind. - Jay Porter
Finca Altozano ($$$) Both Juan and I have deep love for this place. He suggests starting with some blue fin tuna tostadas and a cazuela of beef tongue in salsa verde to make your own tacos. For the main dish, if you like quail, this is the spot, or split the massive rib eye with the table. The wine selection here is extensive and sure to please everyone. I love a sunset walk with my cocktail and a quick trip to check in on the baby goats. It's turned into a full camp by Javier Plascencia with ice cream, coffee and "Lupe" the torta truck. I can't wait to see what else he does. A must-visit when you're in the Valle. - Lindsey

Left to right: Cuarto Cuartos, Deckman’s, Dona Esthela, Monte Xanic

Bura Cuatro Cuatros (Valle de Guadalupe - $$) Make your reservations in advance and drive over to Cuatro Cuatros to watch the unimaginable sunset. The setting and view is out of this world and the fact that we have access to something so beautiful and so close to us is just amazing. -Juan
Deckman's en el Mogor (Valle de Guadalupe - $$$) My kinda heaven. It reminds me of a friend’s ranch in Argentina. Known for cooking over fire in all seasons, Michelin-starred Drew Deckman is often right there with his team - rain or shine. A true farm-to-table experience overlooking a vineyard. - Lindsey
La Cocina de Doña Esthela - It can be quite the trek to get out there - especially after a storm. Ms. Esthela cooks out of the back of her house; a great reminder that we’re in farm country. Chilaquiles, enchiladas, pancakes. Dona Esthela won’t disappoint. - Lindsey
Monte Xanic (Valle de Guadalupe - $$) Grab a table by the pond and do the 5 course food & bev pairing and you're guaranteed to have one of the most enjoyable experiences ever. - Jess

Places to Stay

Finca La Divina ($$) Stay in Javier's home and enjoy an authentic, cozy place to sleep, plus breakfast prepared by the team at Finca. - Juan
La Villa de Valle hotel, Vena Cava winery, and Troika restaurant ($$) - It’s a stylish six-room B&B that’s also the grande dame of the Valle. While you’re there, taste at Phil’s extremely cool winery (great natural wines), then relax at Troika, their delicious outdoor restaurant. One under-publicized note: La Villa’s breakfasts rate consistently among the best meals in the Valle - but they’re for guests only! - Jay Porter
Aledaño Hacienda Guadalupe ($$) Cozy, open Cantina with an amazing 360° view of the entire Valle. This Mexican Cantina features spirits distilled in Mexico, plus craft cocktails (designed by yours truly). The food is a family-style menu that goes from amazing homemade duckciutto flatbread to an endless fresh oysters. A really must-do experience in Valle. - Irving
Hotel Coral y Marina ($) If I’m going with my parents. It’s reasonable, quiet and on the outskirts of Ensenada. The hotel has all the amenities and can coordinate transportation to Valle de Guadalupe. Otherwise, I’m finding a rad spot on Airbnb. - Lindsey

Helpful Travel Tips

Safety

My number one question when I share stories of traveling to Mexico is: “But is it safe?” I think that depends on who you ask. I’m a smart traveler. I’ve been in some really sketchy situations thousands of miles from home with no cell phone. Driving my Subaru a few hours south to Valle de Guadalupe feels safe to me. That being said, I love living right on that edge between safe and scary (i.e. hiking Mt. Baldy in December). Don’t fuck around. Keep a low profile. Be kind. Speak Spanish, if you can. Travel with people who have that same mindset.

Itinerary

You can go to Tijuana for a half-day if you’re just dipping your toe in the water. But if you’re really wanting a taste of the Valle, spend two nights in Ensenada or Valle de Guadalupe. And I know it’s hard, but don’t book more than two reservations per day. The day will unfold and unwind in the most perfect of ways. Trust me.

Reservations

A very good idea, if not, necessary, at some places. Some restaurants may require a bank transfer ahead of time to secure a reservation, especially with a party over six (Fauna). Additionally, they may suggest or require a chef’s tasting menu for larger parties (Deckman’s, Fauna).

Transportation

You can (and should) take your own car. Save yourself a stop at the border and get auto insurance for your vehicle before you head down. Do it online at BajaBound.com or contact your auto insurance company to see if you’re covered internationally. The toll roads in Mexico are well maintained. Bring small bills and expect to travel through a few toll roads $1.50-4. You’ll get change and a receipt. The roads in Valle are dirt and can be in bad shape after the rain. High clearance and all-wheel are not necessary but definitely more convenient. If there’s a puddle, you might want to stop, grab a stick and measure how deep it is before you drive through.

Uber works well in Tijuana and Ensenada. If you venture to Valle de Guadalupe and use Uber to get to your location, be sure you’ve previously arranged for a ride home. If you’re staying in Ensenada, your hotel can assist with booking transportation for a day in Valle, or you can ask me for a personal recommendation. If you hire a driver, be specific with where you want to go and what you want to do. Stand firm in your decisions, unless, of course, the driver is telling you the vineyard isn’t open at that time, etc.

Money

I almost never exchange dollars for pesos and I don’t take more than about $30 cash. Almost every place will take a credit card.

Cell Phone Service

Call your carrier 24 hours prior to departure to be sure your phone works in Mexico. Download WhatsApp and sign up for an account if you don’t have one already. Many locals prefer to text/call using WhatsApp. Especially recommended if you book an Airbnb or private transportation.

Border Crossing

Border wait times are listed online here. In my experience, add about an hour to whatever is listed. If you’re driving, I suggest not going back across San Ysidro. Otay Mesa or Tecate are a bit further east but will save you a ton of time in the long run. And try to avoid the peak crossing times like Sunday afternoon. Another option is to apply for SENTRI for quicker crossing, but do it now because it could take years to get an interview.

Meet Our Contributors:

Jay Porter: A long-time fan of the food and people of the Valle and Ensenada, Jay met the men behind MIHO when they slung localist cuisine together in San Diego. Now in Oakland, Jay co-wrote The Baja California Cookbook — it’s really beautiful, check it out — with Fauna’s chef-owner David Castro Hussong. Tijuana street credential: Jay once encountered a photo of his own father on the wall at Dandy del Sur.

Lindsey: A core member of our leadership team at MIHO and explorer extraordinaire. She grew up in San Diego and spent her childhood family vacations just south of the border. She enjoys exploring all over the country, but especially loves a long weekend eating and drinking through Valle.

Juan: Co-founder of MIHO. Juan grew up in Tijuana and enjoys spending time exploring in the Valle. His brother owns a travel company called Clandestino that tours people on the cultural activities Mexico has to offer, including the delicious restaurants, wineries and breweries. Together, they’ve uncovered some incredible gems.

Rocio: Our culinary visionary and head chef at MIHO. Originally from Spain, Rocio has friends across many borders, including those in the food and wine scene in Baja. Her recommendations go a long way.

Irving: Mixologist for Snake Oil Cocktail Co. and owns his own brand, Dirty Consulting. Irving lives in Tijuana and does menu and bar development for many restaurants in Tijuana, Ensenada and Valle. You can find Irving participating in many cocktail competitions across the US and always in the finals (if not champion) at his favorite, Tiki Oasis.

Jess: Another core member of MIHO’s leadership and our general manager. She spent the first half of her life in France and the second half in hospitality. She knows a good meal and a good time when she sees one.

Lindsey Chronert